Follow our step-by-step video on how to sew an invisible zip with our dressmaking expert's fail-proof method, you won't believe how easy it is


Learn how to sew an invsible zip when making a dress with dressmaking expert, Thelma’s, easy-to-follow techniques.

How to sew an invisible zip

You will need

  • Pins
  • Invisible zip foot
  • Zipper foot
  • Invisible zip
  • Matching thread
  • Sewing machine

1. Taking the back sections of your garment with right sides together, insert pins at 1.5cm along the zig zag finished edge. You can tack this if you prefer. This will act as a guide when positioning the zip.

How to insert a zip with pins2. Once pinned, open out the two back pieces and lay them right sides down. Finger press the pinned seam open. Place the zip face down onto the seam, so that the zipper top is just a little over the seam allowance from the neckline edge, ours is 2cm down.

3. Now pin the zipper tape to the seam allowance only, not all the layers of the dress, with the pins pointing towards the zip pull so they can easily be removed when sewing.

Keep the pins to the edge of the zipper tape too so they don’t get caught under the zipper foot.

4. Remove the pins holding the back seams together but leaving the zipper tape pinned to the seam allowance. Undo the zip and we’re ready to sew.

5. Change the presser foot on your machine to an invisible zipper foot, this foot has grooves underneath to allow for the zipper teeth to pass through smoothly and the needle to stitch behind the teeth.

How to sew a zip with a concealed zip foot6. With one side of the zipper’s teeth running through the groove of the foot, stitch down the side of the zipper tape until you get to the zipper pull and can’t stitch any further. Do a few reverse stitches and then clip the threads.

Repeat for the other side. Once sewn, do up the zip and check that the teeth meet and the seams sit evenly.

7. Replace the concealed zipper foot with a normal zipper foot and stitch the rest of the back seam with a 1.5cm seam allowance, alongside the last few stitches next to your zipper teeth and all the way down the bottom edge.

8. Press the seam open. Sew a couple of stitches at the bottom of the zipper to fix it to the seam allowance and stop it moving around whilst wearing.

Once you’ve mastered how to sew an invisible zip, the next step is to sew the dress lining to the dress. Watch our video to see how simple it is!